Hiking Trips

Bear Valley to Miller Point (Arch Rock)

Layers of green surround the hiker on the Bear Valley Trail, which winds its way through a forest, past a meadow, and ends at Arch Rock on the Pacific Ocean. Overhanging branches from bay trees form giant arches over the path edged with sword ferns, forget-me-nots, sorrel and richly diverse vegetation. Bear Valley Creek runs alongside the path until it reaches Divide Meadow.
Formerly the site of a hunting lodge, Divide Meadow is now a favorite grazing spot for deer. Bear Valley was named for the large number of grizzly bears that roamed in the area before they were hunted to extinction early in the twentieth century.
After Divide Meadow, Coast Creek flows alongside the trail. Small streams running down the canyon join the creek. At the ocean, particularly in the spring, it is fast-flowing and a challenge to cross. Alders line the banks of the creek forming a canopy under which the water travels. Ferns grow mysteriously out of the branches of the moss-covered bay trees. Douglas iris, bleeding hearts and buttercups provide splashes of contrasting color in the palette of varying shades of green.
Four miles down the trail is the ocean and Arch Rock, a promontory that juts out to sea, giving a panoramic view of the coast. North is Chimney Rock, Drakes Beach, Limantour Beach and Sculptured Beach. To the south, Alamere Falls and Double Point can be seen on a clear day. Below, waves crash against the rocks while pelican and cormorant perch on salty sea stacks. Seals and very occasionally, whales can be observed cavorting in the swell.
There is a path down the side of Coast Creek. It is a tricky path past patches of poison oak and, at the bottom, one must hop rocks to reach the other side. There you see the stream going through the rock. Only during a low tide can you follow Coast Creek through the arch and gain access to a beach. It is also possible to reach the small beach south of Arch Rock. The combination of high tide and a Pacific storm brings spectacular waves crashing through the arch.

Chimney Rock

Unbelievable masses of spring wildflowers, dramatic landscapes, elephant seals (at a distance), a historic lifesaving station, an active commercial fishing dock and a possible haunt of romantic poets — the trail to Chimney Rock is one of the finest short hikes in the United States. At its end you might even find the rare pussy ear flower.
To reach the trailhead, take the road towards the Point Reyes Lighthouse, then the left fork to Chimney Rock. The path follows the ridge and goes to the aptly named rock formation at the southern tip of the Point Reyes headlands. Half a mile from the trailhead, a path branches off to the right and leads to a spectacular view of the cliffs and Pacific Ocean. On the isolated cliffs between Chimney Rock and the lighthouse many seals, sea lions and elephant seals lie ‘hauled out’ on the beach. The sandy shore offers a place to rest, provides a respite from the sharks, and allows the pinnipeds to warm themselves, mate and raise pups in season. The Park Service has closed the area to hikers to let these wild sea creatures live undisturbed. A good general rule of thumb for photographers and observers is not to change the behavior of the subject. If the animal becomes frightened and moves away, one has come too close.
Back on the trail, the hike is rich in wildflowers during spring. In winter the overlooks offer prime whale-watching, particularly in February and March, when the grey whale mothers and their calves travel close to the shore as they return from Baja, Mexico on their way back to Alaska.
Since Point Reyes has a reputation for being the foggiest and windiest place on the Pacific coast, we suggest bringing warm clothes and windproof jackets. There is some poison oak but not much. The total hike to Chimney Rock and back is less than two miles, with relatively minor changes in elevation. We would rate this hike as moderately easy while the views gained are second to none.

Alamere Falls From Palomarin

Alamere Falls is a spectacular waterfall that flows into the Pacific Ocean after the winter rains. The 11-mile round-trip hike to the falls starts at the Palomarin Trailhead, near Bolinas, and follows the Coast Trail past two beautiful lakes, Bass and Pelican.
There are great views of the ocean and lush canyons to traverse. The elevation gain and loss is moderate but it’s a relatively long day hike, so one needs to get an early start. Bring warm clothes for possible fog and a flashlight in case of a late return journey. The area is covered with poison oak and long pants might come in handy.
There are two ways to get to the beach by the waterfall. The most direct is a path just south of the falls. It involves a bit of a scramble down a rocky slope. One member on our hike had a fear of heights so we took the alternative route, hiking well north of the falls, near Wildcat Camp, reaching the falls via the shore.
There is something primal about seeing water return in such a dramatic manner to the sea. It combines two favorite forms of nature: waterfalls and ocean surf. Camping at Wildcat on a fog-free full-moon night in the spring and visiting the falls at night would be a memorable experience.
Another way to reach Alamere Falls is from the Five Brooks trailhead. This involves climbing over Firtop, 1300 feet high, a round trip means a 2600 foot elevation gain. Bikes are allowed on this route to nearby Wildcat Beach, but it’s a hard trip back. Richard likes to say the bike ride there was “a once in a lifetime experience.” Because it was so hard to get back he isn’t likely to repeat it.

Hiking Tips

* Bring warm windproof clothing during any season, as unexpected fog and wind can cause hypothermia. Goretex and fleece are ideal.
* Carry a flashlight, matches, water and a tide guide. Many hikers are trapped between surf and cliffs as the tide rises.
* Never turn your back on the ocean. People have been swept out to sea by “sneaker waves.”
* Learn to identify poison oak and stinging nettles.
* Tell friends and/or family members or the National Park Service rangers your route if your plans are potentially hazardous.
* Remember, enjoyment is the keynote; let the slower members of your group set the pace.

Tomales Point Trail

Of all the hikes in West Marin, a walker on the trail to Tomales Point is most likely to be rewarded with the sight of wildlife. This area of the park is home to six herds of tule elk. On a recent trip to the point, I saw three herds of tule elk, an ermine, a bobtail rabbit, a vole, two deer, vultures, pelicans, cormorants, seagulls, sea lion, and a great egret. It’s about 11 miles to the point round trip.
The trail begins at the restored buildings of the Pierce Point Ranch, one of the original dairy farms in the area. An interest in farm architecture could make this a destination in itself. The trail goes up and down grass-covered hills until Tomales Point is reached. Here the land seems to slide into the ocean at the confluence of Tomales Bay and the Pacific. On the ocean side are deeply eroded canyons with layers of different-colored sand reminiscent of Death Valley. Towards Tomales Bay you will see Hog Island and idyllic beaches. Across the bay is Tom’s Point, where oysters, clams and abalone are farmed. South is McClure’s Rock, the Great Beach, and finally the Point Reyes Headlands.
The path is lined with wild radish, yellow, white, and pale lilac. Yellow lupine cover the ridge top, interspersed with hemlock, mustard, California poppies, cockle burrs and wild yarrow.
The view from Tomales Point is spectacular, with pelicans whizzing by crashing waves, barking sea lions, mingling currents, tidal rips and sneaker waves. Beyond the maelstrom is Dillon Beach, sand dunes, Bodega Head, the Sonoma Coast, and, on a clear day, Mount St. Helena.
Near the end of the trail a buoy sounds like the peal of a church bell. It guides sailors at the mouth of Tomales Bay, which is notorious for sneaker waves and shoals. At the point, a worn rope marks a steep and dangerous rappel down to the beach. Divers sometimes search for abalone near the entrance to the bay; a risky venture, as it is the breeding ground for great white sharks and divers have been attacked. So, don’t get eaten or fall off a cliff holding what is left of the rope, just enjoy the view and return safely.

© copyright Kathleen Goodwin