Richard and I walked on the Muddy Hollow Trail on Wednesday. The trail head is just off Limantour Road near the Hostel. There was a warning of “hazardous conditions, trail under water” but as it hadn’t rained in a while, we forged ahead!
The route was initially a dirt road lined with high grasses, lush with wild flowers, horsetail ferns and shrubs. After passing a pumphouse building, the trail became more and more overgrown until we were completely under a canopy of trees. We had to dodge branches by walking semi-erect. Birds overhead were singing mightily.
Suddenly we were in the jungle! We couldn’t tell the trail from the animal tracks. Occasionally the park service had put a ribbon on a branch or there was an arrow to point the way. Water was gurgling everywhere. Several times, we had to cross the stream on shaky logs cut from local alders. We got lost but never thought we were trapped. It was fun to be in there. As we walked, we kept our hands in our pockets to avoid the occasional nettle plant and a minor amount of poison oak. Eventually, we emerged from the jungle and followed an old ranch path, still very overgrown, to a hidden lake. The stream had been dammed by a rancher to create a stock pond. A deer bolted from its hiding place in the bush and ran up the hillside.
An exquisite discovery stunned us!! At the southern end of the lake was an egret roost. Twelve great white egrets were perched in the dark trees, their graceful bodies reflected in the still waters of the lake. They were preening and settling in for the night after a day hunting on Drakes Estero which lies beyond the pond. Occasionally they would fly or leap to find a better perch. As we watched, another five of these huge white birds flew in to join the others, landing in this peaceful sanctuary, safe from predators. Egrets are usually solitary hunters but at night they become part of a community.
Leaving the birds without disturbing them, we walked a further half mile to the Limantour Beach parking lot which sits back from the estero on a marine terrace. We found a beautiful redwood bench, perhaps as a secret memorial. It afforded one of the finest views of Drakes Estero, Drakes Bay and Chimney Rock that we have seen. When we reached the parking lot it was dusk and we started walking up the hill back to our car at Muddy Hollow. A kind park visitor stopped and gave us a ride.
We think this is an incredible trail if you’re not afraid of getting lost in a jungle, are dressed to protect your skin from nettles and don’t mind getting your feet wet for an hour or two. You will only see the egrets at dusk. Don’t frighten the birds or we won’t tell you any more of our secrets!

©Kathleen Goodwin

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